Why Mitumba Still Dominates Kenya’s Clothing Market
Kenya has emerged as a significant importer of second-hand clothes, highlighting a growing reliance on used garments even as the local textile industry struggles to thrive. Recent data indicates that while Kenyan textile imports for 2024 amounted to Sh60 billion, the importation of mitumba, or second-hand clothing, stood at Sh28 billion, offering affordable wear to a broad section of the population.
Individuals within Kenyan households spend an average of Sh409 per quarter on used clothing, in contrast to Sh783 spent on new items, emphasizing the affordability gap that mitumba addresses. This significant price difference has led to an increase in the number of Kenyans purchasing second-hand clothes, which rose to 24.2 million last year.
The affordability of items like trousers, dresses, jackets, shoes, and household textiles remains a primary driver. Importers invest up to USD 15,000 before bringing in these goods, underscoring the notion that this is a regulated business, not merely a dumping ground.
In 2022, Kenyan traders imported 177,664 tonnes of mitumba, generating Sh12 billion in government revenue and supporting the livelihoods of an estimated 2 million people annually. This demographic predominantly includes women, youth, and informal traders.
Despite some narratives painting Kenya as a global dumping ground, the clothing and footwear supplied by the mitumba industry are seen as complementary rather than substitutions for locally manufactured apparel. The two sectors coexist, potentially creating jobs, driving growth, and sustaining Kenya’s fashionable standing on the global stage.
There is a strong correlation between income growth and the consumption of mitumba: for every 1 percent rise in income, there is a 12 percent increase in demand for used clothing. Both used clothes and new clothes serve distinct market needs, possessing unique value chains, pricing models, and consumer bases.
Mitumba significantly contributes to environmental sustainability by extending the lifespan of clothing and reducing textile waste. Recent legislative changes, such as the 2024 Tax Laws (Amendment) Act, have exempted key import duties, making mitumba imports even more affordable. While this has prompted backlash from local manufacturers, it underscores the economic benefits of importing second-hand clothing.
Local textile producers, however, express concerns. The influx of cheap imports is perceived as eroding their market share and weakening efforts to rebuild domestic production capabilities. A notable instance during the last general election saw political figures campaigning on platforms that touched on the mitumba issue, illustrating its socio-economic significance.
Despite government measures to revive the sector, such as revamping Rivatex East Africa in Eldoret and launching the National Cotton, Textile, and Apparel (CTA) Policy 2024, progress has been slow. This policy aims to boost cotton farming, establish textile value-addition centers, and equip industrial centers with tailoring facilities.
As mitumba continues to dominate Kenya’s clothing market, it remains a crucial player in the economy, proving that it can coexist with local manufacturing efforts to propel development. The interplay between imported second-hand clothing and domestic textile production remains a vital issue, with economic and environmental implications for Kenya’s future.
